Hvar: lavender terraces, glamorous harbour and the Pakleni islands

Croatia’s sunniest island: glamour, lavender and clear Adriatic water

Hvar has a split personality, and it works beautifully. On one side there is the glamorous harbour of Hvar Town — yachts moored stern-to, a Renaissance cathedral and arsenal, outdoor bars and restaurants filling the Pjaca (main square), a Venetian fortress above everything. On the other side there are lavender fields that stretch across the limestone plateau in June, quiet fishing villages on the southern coast, the medieval lanes of Stari Grad (the original Greek settlement) and the scattered islets of the Pakleni archipelago just offshore.

Hvar is Croatia’s sunniest island — around 2,700 hours of sun per year — and the light in May, June and September, when the lavender is in bloom and the sea is warm, is quite special. In July and August the island is one of the most popular destinations in the Mediterranean; Hvar Town becomes extremely busy and the Pakleni beaches fill up. Book accommodation well in advance or stick to the shoulder season.

From Dubrovnik, Hvar is a two-step journey: drive or transfer to Split (about 3 hours), then take a fast ferry or a boat tour from there. It is a realistic overnight option but a stretch as a single-day excursion from Dubrovnik.

Why Hvar is worth the journey

Hvar Town. The harbour is the social centre; the Pjaca square has one of the finest collections of Renaissance architecture in Croatia; the Cathedral of Saint Stephen contains a beautiful 13th-century Madonna. The Arsenal (17th century) houses a theatre — reputedly the first public theatre in Europe to admit all social classes. The walk up to the Španjola fortress above town takes 20 minutes and offers panoramic views.

The Pakleni islands. The archipelago of small islands just south of Hvar Town — Sveti Klement, Marinkovac and others — has the best swimming beaches on this side of the island. Most are accessible by water taxi from the harbour (around €3–5 each way) or by speedboat. The beaches range from pebble to gravel and the water is exceptionally clear.

Stari Grad Plain. The 2,400-year-old agricultural field system on the central plateau of Hvar is a UNESCO World Heritage Site — the oldest intact agricultural landscape in Europe. The ancient Greek lot divisions are still visible from the road. Cycling through the landscape in early summer, with lavender in bloom on the hillsides, is one of Croatia’s quieter pleasures.

Lavender. Hvar produces more lavender than anywhere else in Croatia; the plateau blooms in June and early July. The village of Velo Grablje hosts a lavender festival each year, and local cooperatives sell dried bunches and essential oils throughout summer.

Top things to do

Join a 5-islands boat tour from Split. The iconic way to see Hvar combined with the Blue Cave and other islands is by speedboat from Split. Book the Blue Cave, Hvar and 5-islands day boat tour from Split — this is the most popular combination in Central Dalmatia and includes Hvar Town, the Blue Cave on Biševo, and several swimming stops.

Take a full-day Hvar island tour from Split. Book the Hvar full-day island tour from Split — this covers both Hvar Town and a more thorough island experience, including the Pakleni archipelago.

Island-hop with Hvar, Pakleni, Brač and Šolta. Book the Hvar, Pakleni, Brač and Šolta all-inclusive island tour for the widest sweep of Central Dalmatian islands in a single day.

Explore Hvar Town on foot. Walk from the harbour up to the Španjola fortress (20 minutes each way), visit the Cathedral and the Arsenal, and settle for a coffee on the Pjaca. Allow 2–3 hours to see the town properly.

Take water taxis to the Pakleni islands. Water taxis depart from the main harbour throughout the day. Palmižana on Sveti Klement has the best concentration of beach restaurants.

Where to eat in Hvar

Gariful on the harbour is the prestige address — known for fresh lobster and grilled fish prepared simply. This is the expensive option (mains €30–50) but the quality is consistently high.

Konoba Menego in the old town lanes serves honest Dalmatian food — peka (lamb or octopus baked under a domed lid), brudet (fish stew) and local wines at considerably more reasonable prices (mains €15–22). Book ahead in July and August.

For a quick, cheap option the bakeries on the side streets near the market sell excellent bread and burek.

Getting to Hvar from Dubrovnik

Hvar does not have an airport; the access points are:

Via Split (recommended). Drive or take a bus/transfer to Split (3 hours from Dubrovnik), then a fast catamaran to Hvar Town (around 1 hour) or a regular ferry to Stari Grad (2 hours). Total journey from Dubrovnik: 4–5 hours. An overnight in Split or Hvar makes this much more comfortable.

Via organised boat tour from Split. The speedboat and 5-islands tours above depart from Split harbour; these work well as a day trip if you are already staying in Split.

By seasonal catamaran from Dubrovnik. Some summer catamarans (Krilo Shipping) connect Dubrovnik with Hvar and Split directly. The journey from Dubrovnik to Hvar Town takes 2–3 hours with stops. Schedules change annually; check before planning.

See the Dubrovnik–Split coastal 7-day itinerary for the most logical way to combine Dubrovnik, Split and Hvar. The South Dalmatia 10-day road trip includes Hvar as a two-night stay.

Frequently asked questions about Hvar

Is Hvar expensive?

By Croatian standards, yes — and by Adriatic island standards it is among the most expensive. Harbour restaurants and cocktail bars are priced at Western European rates in peak season. Staying in accommodation just outside Hvar Town (e.g. Jelsa or Stari Grad) and eating at konobas away from the main square reduces costs significantly.

What is the best beach on Hvar?

For swimming quality, the Pakleni islands (reached by water taxi from Hvar Town) have the best water. For convenience from Hvar Town, the town beach near the Amfora hotel is accessible on foot. Dubovica, on the south coast road, is a beautiful pebble cove with notably clear water.

Can I do Hvar as a day trip from Dubrovnik?

Technically yes but it is a very long day: 3 hours to Split plus 1 hour ferry plus time on Hvar plus the return journey. You would spend more time travelling than on the island. An overnight in Split or Hvar transforms the experience.

When is the lavender in bloom on Hvar?

The lavender typically blooms in the first two weeks of June and may continue into early July depending on the year. The plateau around Velo Grablje and Vrisnik has the densest fields. By mid-July the harvest is usually complete and the fields are cut.

Is it easy to get around Hvar island?

Hvar Town is compact and walkable. The island itself is 68 km long; getting to the eastern end (Sućuraj) requires a bus or rental car. For a day trip, Hvar Town and the Pakleni islands are sufficient. Scooter and bicycle rental is available in Hvar Town for those wanting to explore the interior.